Transmission " how to" assembly guide

There just wasn't a lot out there on how to guides for this- so here's my version


(With assembled 1st input/2nd layshaft /3rd output motion shaft)
This is where the transmission is having parts replaced, but not affecting tolerances...
The only parts replaced were the 3rd synchro ring and input shaft...

1>Clean cases- lots of crud accumulated in the tail housing especially

2>Put 2nd motion shaft (laygear) in case with biggest toothed gear side forward, do not try to
    insert shaft yet

3>Insert 3rd motion (output) shaft assembly in without 3/4 synchronizer assy on it. 

4>Line up rear bearing hub with the round locating disk at the 10:00 position looking at rear of the case.

5>Gently tap in bearing hub with soft hammer until tip of 3rd shaft is in blank space of laygear,  then slide 3/4 synchronizer assembly on shaft and tap bearing hub in the rest of the way flush to the back of the case.

6>4th gear synchronizer will try to fall off. Make sure synchronizer outer blocks are inserted into synchro assembly.

7>Insert needle roller bearing in 1st motion (input) shaft cup or on snout of 3rd motion shaft.  I apply some bearing grease for startup lubrication.

8>Insert 1st motion (input) shaft til over 3rds snout.
 It will not go in if laygear is pinned in place or if synchro rings outer blocks are not in the assembly!
  Slide in until circlip on bearing reaches housing.

9>There are 2 oiling spacers with grooves on them that go on either side of the layshaft. Big one up front, small to the rear. Insert these (I used a telescoping magnet) then use a smaller diameter rod to line up with layshaft to the other gears

10>Attempt to insert layshaft pin while not fumbling oiling spacers and pushing out roller bearings. The layshaft pins notched end goes towards the front with the notched side "up" (look at the front cover- you will see)

11>If you succeed in that, then the front oil cover /clutch arm holder and
big bearing spacer shim can go on. 

>>Make sure transmission can spin without binding.

12>At the tailshaft there is a large bearing spacer shim against the bearing hub on mine.

13>The speedo gear goes over a tiny half round key in the shaft. No key= no speedo.

14>A distance tube goes over the output shaft. Flanged side to the back.
Shims separate the end of the distance tube from the tailshaft bearing on mine

15>The reverse gear is placed in the case with fork notch to the front,  pin is inserted from the rear of the case with indent to the front.  This notch accepts a bolt with a pointed tip to hold it in position.

16>The 3 shift forks are placed in the appropriate holes from the rear. Make sure the rear fork bolts are wired. 
If they get mixed up, you can set the forked side on the table and look at the indentions
in the shafts.  This is determined by how far they have to go into the transmission.

The order of shaft holes from the table is
lowest = reverse shaft
middle= 1/2 shaft
highest= 3/4 shaft

17>Do not put in the shift rod pills yet, they will fall into the hole and cause problems. Do them last.

18>Place the 1/2 bronze fork (has 2 holes in it) over 1/2 synchronizer and slide the rod through- lining up the notch with the bolt hole in the fork.

19>Place 3/4 bronze shifter fork on 3/4 synchronizer and slide rod through- line up hole

20>Place reverse shifter fork over reverse and slide rod through- line up hole

21>Insert shift rod bolts, nuts, washers (DON'T drop any!) through shift forks into shaft.

should look like this afterwards...

22>The shift rod forks kind of nest together with reverse running over the top of the rest.

23> Bolt the rear housing to the main case- being careful not to disturb shims and keeping shift rods from being bound up.  The shift fork selector needs to stay towards the reverse plunger. Then its selector paddle goes between the forks afterwards.

24>Shift interlock 

 goes around the rear tabs of the shifter forks and envelops the selector paddle to keep it inline with the selector forks. (keeps it from falling away)  Its mounting plate fits into the indent of the housing.

Interlock is the mowog piece 

25> Install shift tower, plastic bushing should snap in to lower shift cup.  6 bolts- 4 long, 2 short. Check shifting action with screwdriver into upper shifter cup.

26>Insert 3 shift pills rounded side down into top left of case with springs and bolts following them.

27>Seal up side plate, re - check all bolts- is the drain bolt in??  11/16"

>>If everything shifts and turns good,
Replace rear transmission seal while you're at it then put on the 1 5/16" tail nut to torque specs.

About 3 qts of oil and you're ready to go...check the dipstick
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It's a 3 synchro- but close enough...