Heart implant

I got around to getting a hoist and moving the lump (engine) and transmission vertically for a change.

After hoisting, I used gunk gel engine cleaner.  Stuff works pretty good with a bristle brush.  It says on the can to warm the engine first, but since it's already 100* outside, I figured that would work too.

I didn't move the chain from the pull so the transmission down position was pre set.
I took off the shifter ring and 3 bolts so it wouldn't snag on the way in.

The only change was I had to lift the front of the B to get the hoist under it.

Here's part of the trick... It gets this far and you forget about the Damn crossmember that the tailshaft has to go over.  I didn't have enough hands to move the tailshaft and get pics. 

Almost in situ.  The front motor mounts are dead on, the transmission mounts are the biggest PITA ever.  I need to re pull the xmember to get the last two pad bolts in.

On to engine accessories.
 I can sandblast then paint around  the engine without pulling it I think.

Strippers, boots, and blowers.

I got your attention.

*I stripped the paint off the trunk "boot" lid, the blue paint came up immediately, most of the mallard green came off without any difficulty.

Crappy respray

Came out better than expected

Pre strip

*Took the heater apart to clean and paint, most of it went well.  I noticed the blower fan wouldn't spin one revolution by hand so I broke into the casing. 
There is a clip that holds the fan cage onto the shaft that wouldn't let go. I tried tapping the shaft out of the fan and ended up cracking the fan cage.  Figures.

The wires unplug from the end case, take note what side they plug into.
mark a side of the case to keep it aligned.

(2)  nuts come off, then the rear cover comes off.  Try not to lose the 3 shims that go on the shaft near the armatures rear.

This exposes the brush plate,  my brushes were in great shape. :)

  Clean out the rear bronze bushing, then I put some silicone grease and a drop of synthetic oil in it.

Remove the brush plate, don't lose the 2 spacer springs off the bolts.

I found that the armature contacts were tarnished, so I used a scotch brite pad ( fine sandpaper does the trick too, just make sure its clean afterwards)

The entire armature would not pull out of the front fan-side bearing- probably why the fan cage wouldn't come off either!  So I worked some synthetic oil down around the bearing and it started turning a lot easier.

To put it back together: put in the 2 case bolts, the brush plate around the shiny armature contacts,
the motor mount ring noting the little alignment tab, I put a tiny dab of silicone grease to hold the 3 shims, then the rear cover, lock washers and nuts, and plug in wires.

After this, mine would hand spin over a revolution without the fan on it. 

Test it out to make sure everything works.  Mine is quieter, probably because the gravel is out of it.
The shaft, while looking at it, should rotate "anti clockwise" or counter clockwise as marked on the fan .

Transmission and engine seals + clutch

So the front bearing shim was installed in the transmission, a .05 came out , I put in .06"

The rear transmission nut laughed at my attempts to put it back on, so I had to take it to a shop with a large impact.

 One dirty back plate. The rear main seal is the typical weepy orange type.

 I keep hearing about how much better these are so we're trying vitron seals

 The flywheel had the nearly new disc partially froze to it for decades.  Not glazed over, but probably the second disk on it.

Prettiest part of the vehicle and nobody is going to see it. $37.50 well spent.

 the pilot bushing

Was worn enough a 5/8 deep socket fit in it. Way too worn.  

I tried the grease hydraulic pressure method of removing it but ended up hand sawing a groove into it and pulling it that way.

New one went in with minimal exertion.