Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Check your water passages, paint prep update

I have started making a plastic sheet/pvc tube paint booth for the garage.
Top hanging tube is 1", bottom skirt holder is 1/2" diameter because all it does is keep the plastic from flapping with the positive pressure. 
Also got a 35K BTU propane shop heater to warm the car before painting

Just got the car in acid etch primer, still finding dings here and there that didn't show after bare steel sanding.  Body work is rewarding, but sucks.

I will test the painting waters by doing the trunk, under trunk lid, engine compartment, and underhood to test the sprayer out with the 2K primer first.


Date clock on the head, The other is near/under the oil filter area on the block

The engine got silicone side engine gaskets, poly for valve cover bolts, and while putting on the water pump I found that there was a bunch of crud in the outlet hole that goes to the head that I had to scrape out/blow out.  Could have been why it heated up so fast last time it was running.


DID YOU KNOW...
That the far right hole (3:00 position) in the block goes
straight up to the hole the red straw is in?
Mine was solid, just like the bolt hole behind the distributor.

See below, the coolant passage is next to the front head stud

This one was completely clogged with rusty yuck , so it got snaked and
blown out from both sides. There was a fountain of rusty yuck coming out of the thermostat bolt hole.  
There is also a tiny hole between the head and block (about the size of the straw)
under the left side of the thermostat on the bottom of the head. Make sure it isn't crusted over.

I used copper anti seize on everything being re assembled.

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