Without a hiccup, it made its way down I-20 to Tyler, TX with its new owner at the helm. Godspeed sir.
Tuesday, July 18, 2017
Another runner- ran away
I have parted ways with the MGB, It was a fun learning curve.
Without a hiccup, it made its way down I-20 to Tyler, TX with its new owner at the helm. Godspeed sir.
Without a hiccup, it made its way down I-20 to Tyler, TX with its new owner at the helm. Godspeed sir.
Friday, March 17, 2017
Its alive (again) and running
Id like to thank sportscar parts ltd from Nashville for sending another*entire* set of pistons to replace the 1 piston that was the wrong size in the first order. Thats service. The rest were shipped back with a note of gratitude.
In retrospect i believe the original rings and pistons along with a maxed out timing chain adjuster couldnt keep up with the new found compression being created by the new head. Thus, the rebuild.
On to business:
new timing chain and gears and adjuster
valves lapped and buttoned up. Initial compression 139 to 143. So much for 18v low compression...
Every thing reset to standard specs, static timed, hifs reset to stock plus 1 turn rich.... the key turned and it fired.
It fired for 5 to 10 seconds and with a timing light , adjusting the distributor, and a screwdriver she idled.
After getting a little heat the idle was raised to 1700rpms for a couple minutes to get everything friendly in the engine.
Depressed the clutch and took it for a gradual spin.
The engine is way more willing than it was before, I wound it up to 3000 a couple of times through the gears and took it back for a little tuning.
Its a happy car again and a joy to drive
In retrospect i believe the original rings and pistons along with a maxed out timing chain adjuster couldnt keep up with the new found compression being created by the new head. Thus, the rebuild.
On to business:
new timing chain and gears and adjuster 
New little bearings copper head gasket, pushrods, head studs
valves lapped and buttoned up. Initial compression 139 to 143. So much for 18v low compression...
----------------
So after spending 2.5 hours re installing,Every thing reset to standard specs, static timed, hifs reset to stock plus 1 turn rich.... the key turned and it fired.
It fired for 5 to 10 seconds and with a timing light , adjusting the distributor, and a screwdriver she idled.
After getting a little heat the idle was raised to 1700rpms for a couple minutes to get everything friendly in the engine.
Depressed the clutch and took it for a gradual spin.
The engine is way more willing than it was before, I wound it up to 3000 a couple of times through the gears and took it back for a little tuning.
Thursday, December 8, 2016
Delays. Delays. Engine in limbo.
The engine came apart- connecting rod bearings good- except 2 small scores in bearing surface on 2 rods.
FINALLY ordered some pistons- a complete set with rings and wrist pins. Country brand- from ebay dealer that I had ordered from before.
They got in, all shiny- and the next week they went to Blaines motor supply in Dallas (come down Dolphin road from I-30- it's a little safer) to get the new wrist pins pressed into the rods.
They got that accomplished for the princely sum of $32.
I had visions of sugarplums thinking that the engine would be halfway done by 4pm.
When I get home (after they cooled a bit -there's a blowtorch that expands the top of the connecting rod- then they press out the wrist pin) the rings started going on. Still happy as a clam until...
Jaw dropping- In disbelief it went to the block - the standard size non- ringed one slid in - the 030 piston slid in to the wrist pin. That's it.
Contacted the ebay seller with the issue and he is supposed to be sending AN ENTIRE NEW SET TO REPLACE THIS SINGLE PROBLEM. He just wants the unused set back.
That is service
FINALLY ordered some pistons- a complete set with rings and wrist pins. Country brand- from ebay dealer that I had ordered from before.
They got in, all shiny- and the next week they went to Blaines motor supply in Dallas (come down Dolphin road from I-30- it's a little safer) to get the new wrist pins pressed into the rods.
They got that accomplished for the princely sum of $32.
I had visions of sugarplums thinking that the engine would be halfway done by 4pm.
When I get home (after they cooled a bit -there's a blowtorch that expands the top of the connecting rod- then they press out the wrist pin) the rings started going on. Still happy as a clam until...
 |
| look at the marks on top of the piston... |
Jaw dropping- In disbelief it went to the block - the standard size non- ringed one slid in - the 030 piston slid in to the wrist pin. That's it.
Contacted the ebay seller with the issue and he is supposed to be sending AN ENTIRE NEW SET TO REPLACE THIS SINGLE PROBLEM. He just wants the unused set back.
That is service
Monday, November 14, 2016
Engine (mild) overhaul
So the engine got mostly stripped to see whats going on with it.
Seems like a perfect storm happened all at once.
Findings are:
1) even with still having decent compression, the cylinder walls are smooth with no hatching and the rings are tired and gave up without breaking. Maybe sticking rings.
(probably should have done this while head was being changed)
 |
| cyl 1 |
 |
| cyl2 |
 |
| cyl 3 |
 |
| cyl 4 |
2) "rebuilt" head from sports car warehouse leaks like a seive from exhausts. Have to lap valves
3) Measured pistons at top and middle- 3.15 top (stock size) and average 3.12 at wrist pin. New ones are needed.
BTW define terminology before ordering a set of pistons.
My version of a set of pistons is enough to do a complete engine. I asked Modernengine if this was a set for the MGB. He says yes so I buy "them"
So I get one piston with rings for about $100.
Ebay guy from California states a set is one piston with rings.
I didn't know if I was wrong so I asked people at lowes and the USPS if they would call that a "set"
They all answered "no" So suck on that Modernengine. It's on its way back.
4) pushrods 5 and 8 were ever so slightly bent. -both exhaust btw.
5) the bearings look really good, but a new set (my version) will be ordered.
I bought a honing brush for $37, ($89 at oreilly- really?!?!?) lapping tools and paste, ring expanders, ring compressor, and a bore measuring kit that won't show til after Thanksgiving.
I'll be done by then so it doesn't matter.
 |
| Cylinder 4 with the first suggested reverse hone to break the glazing. What a difference. |
 |
| You can see the honing marks in cylinders 2,3,4. VS 1 that is oil soaked and black. |
Turns out that that speed and counting 1 second for entry and exit of the bore came out to the ideal 25-30* hatching .
I started out with a 10 count and checked. The glazing was gone and a pattern was forming.
I went back and gave them a 30 count (30 strokes) , this was enough for cylinder 4 and 1,
2 and 3 took a little extra to get rid of the piston ring high and low points.
Needed:
AFAIK
head and rocker studs, nuts, washers
all copper head gasket
pistons
bearings for rods
I'll find something after placing the order I'm sure.
Needed:
AFAIK
head and rocker studs, nuts, washers
all copper head gasket
pistons
bearings for rods
I'll find something after placing the order I'm sure.
Tuesday, October 25, 2016
Mgb engine brexit
Welp. I was driving around , everything going perfectly, when there was a clattering from the engine compartment. Sounded like slapping a belt across a flat surface.
That happened a couple times then the engine lost about 76 horsepower and died on the side of the road.
Thinking the fan belt came off, i popped the hood. Everything was where it should be. Got it restarted running rough. Not enough to pull itself in 1st gear.
Called a buddy for a tow.
Note the pushrod vs rocker orientation. After putting it back in place the valves were re gapped. Couldn't get it running right without gas straight into the carbs, and it wont idle.
Soooo the head gas to come off. To see whats up.
That happened a couple times then the engine lost about 76 horsepower and died on the side of the road.
Thinking the fan belt came off, i popped the hood. Everything was where it should be. Got it restarted running rough. Not enough to pull itself in 1st gear.
Called a buddy for a tow.
 |
| Excellent mpgs. V8 power! |
Soooo the head gas to come off. To see whats up.
Saturday, September 24, 2016
Much has transpired since last post & mpg update
The top is on.
It came with a guide chalk line already on it for the front of the frame.
After affixing the rear of the top the front middle was pulled taught, not drum tight, this left about an inch between their mark and the frames lip.
This is the link i used for guidelines.
http://www.wmbgbrit.com/install_new_top_mgb.htm
It is an ez on brand from the Carolinas, It fits nicely except the 2 snaps next to the top frame hinge behind the door. One is stretchable at 1/2"off, the other is not at 3/4".
After 2 weeks on, and several Texas heat cycles, that one snap still cannot be stretched to the frame hinge without popping off. The extra vinyl from the top was made into a double sided snap spacer.
Btw the zippered rear window is worth the extra $20.
It streches some when driving, but becomes taught again soon after.
After a couple of monsoons, there have been no leaks from anywhere.
--------------UPDATE 9-28-2016
-Fall has arrived in Texas. All 2 weeks of it.
- Cool, dewey mornings and warm afternoons.
-After driving with the top up I found that the fresh air flap behind the radio flows better air at the footwells if it is in the first or second position.
-With the top up you can distinguish what song is on the radio at highway speeds.
-The center dash vents blow a hellish amount of air with just the wing window cracked open
-Also found that my gearstick doesn't buzz if the shifter knob is removed. Can't tell why. Going to try to pour some caulk down it before screwing it on and see if that stops it.
-Had to adjust the toe in a bit there was some feathering on the inside of the fronts. May need another 1/2 turn in.
-Doral tires are wearing nicely, are quiet, and predictable around corners.
-The latest mpg was 26.2 with moderate throttle driving after starting fresh and re-tuning the carbs.
High was 27s with them leaned some,
-I found that the odometer ran 0.1 miles high according to highway markers.
Not bad for a 44 year old pushrod 4 banger with dual carbs.
-I'm thinking an electronic 45d distributor is in the works. When that transpires- you'll be notified.
It came with a guide chalk line already on it for the front of the frame.
After affixing the rear of the top the front middle was pulled taught, not drum tight, this left about an inch between their mark and the frames lip.
This is the link i used for guidelines.
http://www.wmbgbrit.com/install_new_top_mgb.htm
It is an ez on brand from the Carolinas, It fits nicely except the 2 snaps next to the top frame hinge behind the door. One is stretchable at 1/2"off, the other is not at 3/4".
After 2 weeks on, and several Texas heat cycles, that one snap still cannot be stretched to the frame hinge without popping off. The extra vinyl from the top was made into a double sided snap spacer.
Btw the zippered rear window is worth the extra $20.
It streches some when driving, but becomes taught again soon after.
After a couple of monsoons, there have been no leaks from anywhere.
--------------UPDATE 9-28-2016
-Fall has arrived in Texas. All 2 weeks of it.
- Cool, dewey mornings and warm afternoons.
-After driving with the top up I found that the fresh air flap behind the radio flows better air at the footwells if it is in the first or second position.
-With the top up you can distinguish what song is on the radio at highway speeds.
-The center dash vents blow a hellish amount of air with just the wing window cracked open
-Also found that my gearstick doesn't buzz if the shifter knob is removed. Can't tell why. Going to try to pour some caulk down it before screwing it on and see if that stops it.
-Had to adjust the toe in a bit there was some feathering on the inside of the fronts. May need another 1/2 turn in.
-Doral tires are wearing nicely, are quiet, and predictable around corners.
-The latest mpg was 26.2 with moderate throttle driving after starting fresh and re-tuning the carbs.
High was 27s with them leaned some,
-I found that the odometer ran 0.1 miles high according to highway markers.
Not bad for a 44 year old pushrod 4 banger with dual carbs.
-I'm thinking an electronic 45d distributor is in the works. When that transpires- you'll be notified.
Saturday, August 13, 2016
Transmission " how to" assembly guide
There just wasn't a lot out there on how to guides for this- so here's my version
(With assembled 1st input/2nd layshaft /3rd output motion shaft)
This is where the transmission is having parts replaced, but not affecting tolerances...
The only parts replaced were the 3rd synchro ring and input shaft...
1>Clean cases- lots of crud accumulated in the tail housing especially
2>Put 2nd motion shaft (laygear) in case with biggest toothed gear side forward, do not try to
insert shaft yet
3>Insert 3rd motion (output) shaft assembly in without 3/4 synchronizer assy on it.
4>Line up rear bearing hub with the round locating disk at the 10:00 position looking at rear of the case.
5>Gently tap in bearing hub with soft hammer until tip of 3rd shaft is in blank space of laygear, then slide 3/4 synchronizer assembly on shaft and tap bearing hub in the rest of the way flush to the back of the case.
6>4th gear synchronizer will try to fall off. Make sure synchronizer outer blocks are inserted into synchro assembly.
7>Insert needle roller bearing in 1st motion (input) shaft cup or on snout of 3rd motion shaft. I apply some bearing grease for startup lubrication.
8>Insert 1st motion (input) shaft til over 3rds snout.
It will not go in if laygear is pinned in place or if synchro rings outer blocks are not in the assembly!
Slide in until circlip on bearing reaches housing.
9>There are 2 oiling spacers with grooves on them that go on either side of the layshaft. Big one up front, small to the rear. Insert these (I used a telescoping magnet) then use a smaller diameter rod to line up with layshaft to the other gears
10>Attempt to insert layshaft pin while not fumbling oiling spacers and pushing out roller bearings. The layshaft pins notched end goes towards the front with the notched side "up" (look at the front cover- you will see)
11>If you succeed in that, then the front oil cover /clutch arm holder and
big bearing spacer shim can go on.
>>Make sure transmission can spin without binding.
12>At the tailshaft there is a large bearing spacer shim against the bearing hub on mine.
13>The speedo gear goes over a tiny half round key in the shaft. No key= no speedo.
14>A distance tube goes over the output shaft. Flanged side to the back.
Shims separate the end of the distance tube from the tailshaft bearing on mine
15>The reverse gear is placed in the case with fork notch to the front, pin is inserted from the rear of the case with indent to the front. This notch accepts a bolt with a pointed tip to hold it in position.
16>The 3 shift forks are placed in the appropriate holes from the rear. Make sure the rear fork bolts are wired.
If they get mixed up, you can set the forked side on the table and look at the indentions
in the shafts. This is determined by how far they have to go into the transmission.
The order of shaft holes from the table is
lowest = reverse shaft
middle= 1/2 shaft
highest= 3/4 shaft
17>Do not put in the shift rod pills yet, they will fall into the hole and cause problems. Do them last.
18>Place the 1/2 bronze fork (has 2 holes in it) over 1/2 synchronizer and slide the rod through- lining up the notch with the bolt hole in the fork.
19>Place 3/4 bronze shifter fork on 3/4 synchronizer and slide rod through- line up hole
20>Place reverse shifter fork over reverse and slide rod through- line up hole
21>Insert shift rod bolts, nuts, washers (DON'T drop any!) through shift forks into shaft.
22>The shift rod forks kind of nest together with reverse running over the top of the rest.
23> Bolt the rear housing to the main case- being careful not to disturb shims and keeping shift rods from being bound up. The shift fork selector needs to stay towards the reverse plunger. Then its selector paddle goes between the forks afterwards.
24>Shift interlock
goes around the rear tabs of the shifter forks and envelops the selector paddle to keep it inline with the selector forks. (keeps it from falling away) Its mounting plate fits into the indent of the housing.
25> Install shift tower, plastic bushing should snap in to lower shift cup. 6 bolts- 4 long, 2 short. Check shifting action with screwdriver into upper shifter cup.
26>Insert 3 shift pills rounded side down into top left of case with springs and bolts following them.
27>Seal up side plate, re - check all bolts- is the drain bolt in?? 11/16"
>>If everything shifts and turns good,
Replace rear transmission seal while you're at it then put on the 1 5/16" tail nut to torque specs.
About 3 qts of oil and you're ready to go...check the dipstick
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(With assembled 1st input/2nd layshaft /3rd output motion shaft)
This is where the transmission is having parts replaced, but not affecting tolerances...
The only parts replaced were the 3rd synchro ring and input shaft...
1>Clean cases- lots of crud accumulated in the tail housing especially
2>Put 2nd motion shaft (laygear) in case with biggest toothed gear side forward, do not try to
insert shaft yet
3>Insert 3rd motion (output) shaft assembly in without 3/4 synchronizer assy on it.
4>Line up rear bearing hub with the round locating disk at the 10:00 position looking at rear of the case.
5>Gently tap in bearing hub with soft hammer until tip of 3rd shaft is in blank space of laygear, then slide 3/4 synchronizer assembly on shaft and tap bearing hub in the rest of the way flush to the back of the case.
6>4th gear synchronizer will try to fall off. Make sure synchronizer outer blocks are inserted into synchro assembly.
7>Insert needle roller bearing in 1st motion (input) shaft cup or on snout of 3rd motion shaft. I apply some bearing grease for startup lubrication.
8>Insert 1st motion (input) shaft til over 3rds snout.
It will not go in if laygear is pinned in place or if synchro rings outer blocks are not in the assembly!
Slide in until circlip on bearing reaches housing.
9>There are 2 oiling spacers with grooves on them that go on either side of the layshaft. Big one up front, small to the rear. Insert these (I used a telescoping magnet) then use a smaller diameter rod to line up with layshaft to the other gears
10>Attempt to insert layshaft pin while not fumbling oiling spacers and pushing out roller bearings. The layshaft pins notched end goes towards the front with the notched side "up" (look at the front cover- you will see)
11>If you succeed in that, then the front oil cover /clutch arm holder and
big bearing spacer shim can go on.
>>Make sure transmission can spin without binding.
12>At the tailshaft there is a large bearing spacer shim against the bearing hub on mine.
13>The speedo gear goes over a tiny half round key in the shaft. No key= no speedo.
14>A distance tube goes over the output shaft. Flanged side to the back.
Shims separate the end of the distance tube from the tailshaft bearing on mine
15>The reverse gear is placed in the case with fork notch to the front, pin is inserted from the rear of the case with indent to the front. This notch accepts a bolt with a pointed tip to hold it in position.
16>The 3 shift forks are placed in the appropriate holes from the rear. Make sure the rear fork bolts are wired.
If they get mixed up, you can set the forked side on the table and look at the indentions
in the shafts. This is determined by how far they have to go into the transmission.
The order of shaft holes from the table is
lowest = reverse shaft
middle= 1/2 shaft
highest= 3/4 shaft
17>Do not put in the shift rod pills yet, they will fall into the hole and cause problems. Do them last.
18>Place the 1/2 bronze fork (has 2 holes in it) over 1/2 synchronizer and slide the rod through- lining up the notch with the bolt hole in the fork.
19>Place 3/4 bronze shifter fork on 3/4 synchronizer and slide rod through- line up hole
20>Place reverse shifter fork over reverse and slide rod through- line up hole
21>Insert shift rod bolts, nuts, washers (DON'T drop any!) through shift forks into shaft.
 |
| should look like this afterwards... |
22>The shift rod forks kind of nest together with reverse running over the top of the rest.
23> Bolt the rear housing to the main case- being careful not to disturb shims and keeping shift rods from being bound up. The shift fork selector needs to stay towards the reverse plunger. Then its selector paddle goes between the forks afterwards.
24>Shift interlock
goes around the rear tabs of the shifter forks and envelops the selector paddle to keep it inline with the selector forks. (keeps it from falling away) Its mounting plate fits into the indent of the housing.
 |
| Interlock is the mowog piece |
25> Install shift tower, plastic bushing should snap in to lower shift cup. 6 bolts- 4 long, 2 short. Check shifting action with screwdriver into upper shifter cup.
26>Insert 3 shift pills rounded side down into top left of case with springs and bolts following them.
27>Seal up side plate, re - check all bolts- is the drain bolt in?? 11/16"
>>If everything shifts and turns good,
Replace rear transmission seal while you're at it then put on the 1 5/16" tail nut to torque specs.
About 3 qts of oil and you're ready to go...check the dipstick
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's a 3 synchro- but close enough...
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