One almost done...

The original floors were... crunchy.


This car was only driven on Sundays- Because its holy! 
Ok - bad joke.  But you can tell from the English drain holes that
 the cover leaked in the field....

Passenger side spot welded in.... :)



The drivers side had more damage to the floor pans than the passenger did.. so the top piece is getting welded to the
bottom of the transmission tunnel next to the gas pedal since the lowest inch of it was toast.
This will give the other floorpan something to weld to.
I started with a light sheetmetal template, but ended up with some stainless 14 gauge that has been hanging around for
forever.  The bottom piece is the very front of the floorboard before going vertical to the firewall.
Just enough had rusted off the car that there would be a 1 1/2" gap between original metal and the new floorboards.
Once welded in, this will be stronger than stock. 
I don't think you could jack the car up by it, but its way thicker than stock.


 

After the floors get in, it will get seam sealer and complete undercoating. Then the car can come off the rotisserie and back on to its suspension. After I get that done...

steering rack

The steering rack and pinion couldn't be any simpler.  Its held to the front suspension crossmember by 4 bolts, the steering shaft u joint by one bolt and 2 tie rod ends.

I had to cut the multiple torn pieces of boots off and un clamp the boot clamps.
Take off the tie rod ends and before moving the lock nuts, measure how far in from the end they are so when it goes back together you will be in the ballpark.
The above picture shows the little copper drag cup (bottom most part near the red paint) that fits IN the adjustor plunger under the flat elliptical plate. Mine had almost NO oil in it, I'm sure that's why its so shiny on the bottom.
Mr. Twist  says when refilling the rack- to remove the thinnest shim under the flat plate to keep the desired drag on the rack. Im going to rebuild and try mine out before doing that.
The domed front cap has the steering shaft nutted through a roller bearing.  Mine needed a cleaning but looked in good shape.
The tie rods are held by a screw on cap and lock screw cap .  Just clean the internal mating surfaces and screw them back together where they aren't bound up. Make sure the little disk has the concave dimple facing out towards the tie rods.
Then re dimple the lock nut.

University motors mentor:
Start at 1:30

https://youtu.be/gl1s39ACCwU


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQt-u-frkJs&sns=em

completed, just needs oil...

Update: SOB still has a slow mystery leak..even after gasketing on endplates.  Will update when I find it...

engine and suspension removal

The engine and transmission are pretty easy to pull, unbolt all the engine isolator bushing bolts, ground strap, transmission crossmember anud bushing.  Remove the shifter ring (3 shouldered bolts) and pull the shifter straight up.
I put the chain between upper rear transmission bolt near the head and
The alternator ear near the water pump.
The lift point was the back third of the valve cover.  With the back the car up on jack stands it was easy to pull out with just a little bit of tilting.

The front suspension was lowered with the hoist , remember to remove all brake lines and clear everything away from the suspension before unbolting the 4 bolts!

This front piece without the steering rack is 173 unweildly pounds, so don't expect to stop it by yourself if it gets away from you!

The rear axle is supposed to be 169 pounds or thereabouts , remember to remove the shock links BEFORE loosening things and cutting limit straps.

I have to replace one now..

Looks like a funky dana axle.

I'll be stripping and refurbishing these parts soon...

After I take apart the doors, I can start the floorpans!